WoodworkingONLINE.com

Last night I undertook the task of cleaning 2 weeks of accumulation off my benchtop.

Some of the clutter was the remnants from fun projects. But mostly it was the residue of home maintenance – sound familiar? After cleaning the benchtop, I got to thinking about what items I would allow to remain.

Now, there are the tools that we own, and then there are the tools that we actually use (a much smaller list). I like to keep my benchtop clean and not use it as a storage shelf. But, I’ve got a couple of tools that never seem to leave my benchtop because I use them constantly. They include a small square, block plane, dust brush, mallet, measuring tape, a mechanical pencil, and finally a bench knife.

A bench knife can quickly round the edge of a tenon that needs to fit into a routed mortise, clean a tight joint, bevel an edge, and do many tasks quickly and easily. And it is a wonderful companion to my block plane and chisel.

Now, by bench knife, I don’t mean a utility knife. Utility knives are great for straight down scoring and cutting thin materials like carpet, tar paper, matboard, and the like, but, utility knives are not woodworking tools. The blades wiggle about, are too wide, and the handles are designed only for an inline power grip making fine control very difficult.

A bench knife is a woodworker’s tool. It should have an appropriate handle size and shape, one that can easily be gripped and pulled in conjunction with using the thumb to brace against the workpiece, similar to the motion of making a fist, or firmly and comfortably gripped to push the blade away, or make a piercing cut.

A bench knife should have a tapered blade so that the tip can get into tight spaces yet the base of the blade is stout enough for heavy cuts. Also, the blade should not flex (flexible blades are for peeling fruit) and a cross section that can “roll” into and out of a cut.

And forget about A2, cryogenic steel, molecular packing, or any steel-related voodoo you may have heard about. Tried-and-true high carbon steel that has been properly heat treated makes a wonderful blade that has the right combination of toughness and edge-holding ability.

For a purchased knife, my favorite is a 2″ knife by Frost. It’s a plain unadorned knife and the price is reasonable. I used this knife daily for years carving figures as part of my former life as a craftsperson, so, I can vouch that the blade is of good quality with a shape that makes it quite versatile. The center swelling of the handle is comfortable and allows for a variety of grips.

So think about adding a bench knife to your benchtop. There are the tools we own, then there are the tools that we use. A good bench knife is a tool that you will use.

P.S. Off in the future the making of a bench knife may be a project in ShopNotes. My first prototype uses a purchased knife blank to which custom wood scales have been riveted on. The nameplate is a fun addition. (Who doesn’t like to personalize their tools?) I may also custom make a knife blank from tool steel.

When you design for ShopNotes Magazine you can’t help but develop an appreciation, even an obsession, for hardware. Not just flashy hinges and knobs, but mundane bearings, springs, brass rod, plastic sheets, cranks, pipes, motors – even threaded rod. There are more bits, parts, and stuff out there than you can believe. (Just sit down with all 3,602 pages of the McMaster-Carr industrial supply catalog. You’ll be amazed. And you’ll be inspired.)

A few years back in ShopNotes, we did a version of an English carving vise that appeared in Issue No. 71. (Editor’s Note: This issue is available as part of ShopNotes Annual Volume 12, a hard-bound collection of Issues 67 — 72.) I have an early prototype in my home shop that I use often. At the time we designed this project, the only reasonably priced and available option for the screw mechanism was to use standard threaded rod. The size I used was 3/4″-10 NC threaded rod. It works well, but you know how it can be if you need to go a distance on regular threads, spin, spin, spin, yawn, spin, spin some more. Standard V- thread is more for sealing and fastening applications rather than quick movement. What I really wanted to use was ACME threaded rod.

So what’s so great about ACME thread? This stuff has the guts you want for strong clamping and it won’t put you to sleep spinning the handle. What sets it apart are the shape of the threads. The threads are large, broad, and square, which provides great strength. And, because there are fewer threads per inch, it offers rapid lateral movement. ACME threaded rod and fittings are available in two grades: general-purpose grade or precision grade.

General-purpose ACME thread has one start, or one continuous thread, the same as standard thread on bolts and screws. Precision acme thread can have up to five starts delivering much more lateral movement per revolution.

General-purpose ACME threaded rod has a looser fit, better for dusty shop environments. Precision ACME threads are made to much higher standards as it’s often used for lead screws in lathes, milling machines, and industrial equipment requiring great precision and durability. This precision and durability can cost 3-4 times as much as general-purpose ACME rod.

General purpose ACME rod is the type we’re interested in. It’s now available through two of my favorite suppliers (McMaster-Carr and ENCO) and priced reasonably enough for projects in the home shop.

Of course, there needs to be something for the threaded rod to engage. Square, hex, and cylinder nuts are available for general-purpose use. Brass and bronze nuts are also available. They’ll travel move lightly than steel, but I find that plain steel hex nuts are the best option as they are versatile and also inexpensive. So, I don’t have to cry over a nut buried in epoxy that didn’t work out.

A few simple design rules. First, when I build any mechanism out of wood, I don’t strive to build with perfect precision. Instead, my aim is to build the structure around the mechanism, altering and adjusting to it to accommodate the movement that I want.

What I mean is rely on accuracy rather than precision. (Precision means building to a tight standard. Plus or minus 1/8″ might be precise for a house. Plus or minus .0001″ might be precise for a wristwatch.) Accuracy is building toward what’s right or true. In the case of a shop made vise or clamp, this means it should work smoothly and effectively.

The second rule is to design mechanical projects from the beginning with a bit of float in them. If it rattles a bit more than you like in winter be satisfied by knowing it will still work fine in the summer.

Finally, just like a powered machine, moving parts benefit from lubrication. In a dusty shop environment greases and oils collect dust, dirt, and other shop grime. So, the best choice is a dry lubricant. There are convenient spray dry lubricants available, but I prefer the old-fashioned paste wax I use on my woodworking projects. Is it the best choice? No, but I always have some around and it’s easy to apply.

“Working tools” such as vises, hold downs, and clamps are great projects for your shop. Not only will you get the satisfaction of using a tool that you’ve made, but, the tool can be built specifically to suit your requirements and style of work. Additionally, there will be a whole new range of things to learn including the strength of individual materials, the strength of assemblies, and principles of simple mechanics. Designing and building tools can be a fun challenge to your ingenuity.

If you decide to build one of these working tools take some time to consider all your hardware options. Even a small upgrade like using ACME threaded rod will make a huge difference in how your project will turn out. Your project will look and work like a “real” tool.

Spoiler Alert: I’m in the early stages of designing a benchtop vise that will possibly appear later this year in ShopNotes Magazine. I’d like to hear what you’d include in the way of design, materials, and features.

ShopNotes magazine has finally given its readers a practical reason to download Google’s design and drawing software — SketchUp. In Issue No. 102, the magazine features a great plan for a Cabinetmaker’s Workbench. And for the first time, they’re providing an Online Extra feature that I think is really cool — a SketchUp model of the workbench in 3-D.

If you’re familiar with the program, you know how powerful a tool it is. And if you’re new to it, Google has provided dozens of video tutorials, an extensive Help Center and even live training classes that make it easy to start modeling your own projects right away.

ShopNotes associate editor Randy Maxey came up with the idea to add the model to the magazines’ website. He thought it would be fun to provide readers with a professionally-designed project that they can actually take apart to really get a feel for the way it goes together before deciding to build it. And best of all, if you want to modify the workbench — make it taller, longer, or even change it to feature an edge-grain top — you can take the model and make any changes you want to reflect your particular needs.

Other free downloads at the website include plans for the drawers, a short video animation of the workbench’s best features, and a fraction-to-decimal conversion chart.

When I built my first and only woodworking bench several years ago, I designed it for storage underneath. But, like a lot of things, I never got around to finishing it. So my bench has existed all these years with just a rough shell of a Baltic birch cabinet between the legs of the bench.

Part of the reason I hadn’t done anything until now was because I wasn’t sure what I wanted. I didn’t know what would be the best use of the space. Would simple shelves suffice?  A combination of drawers and doors? This weekend, I really took some time to look at my tools and how they’re stored (or not stored, as the case may be). I have a lot of measuring tools, a fair number of chisels, old carving tools, and other hand tools. So for me, it seemed that a bunch of shallow drawers would serve me better than deeper ones. Things get tossed around and lost in deep drawers.

Now, I’m one that likes to use material I have on hand, so I found a piece of ½” Baltic birch plywood left over from another project. I ripped it into 2″-wide strips to form the sides of the drawer boxes. Now, what joinery to use? Nobody but me would be likely to see the drawers, and I’m a practical sort of guy, so I opted for pocket hole joinery. No glue. And it’s fast and strong. I drilled two pocket holes at each end of the back and front pieces on the outside face. That way, the front ones will be hidden by a false drawer front I’ll add later. And the back pocket holes will be hidden inside the cabinet. Let me add here that if you’re going to build drawers using pocket hole joinery, Kreg’s right angle clamp is worth every penny. It holds the joint nice and tight while driving screws.

But what to use for the drawer bottoms?  I thought I had some ¼” hardboard lying around, but soon realized I must have used it all up. But I did have some ¼” pegboard…hmmm…   So that’s what I used. I had to laugh at myself for being such a tightwad, but the more I thought about it, the more I realized it was a brilliant idea. You know why? Because I can make little dividers for my drawers with ¼”-dia. pegs in the bottom to fit in the pegboard holes. So that’s what I’m gonna’ do.

Anyhow…when I get all the drawers done, the hope is that I’ll clear up some much-needed bench space and actually have room to work on those furniture projects on my list.

I spent some time with my son in the shop last weekend working on building more bench space.  I’m still in the process of moving into my shop, so all I had was the traditional woodworker’s bench I brought from my old house.  My 13-year old son says, “Why do you need another bench.”  Giving this a few seconds of thought, and knowing this was an opportunity for a life lesson, I replied, “You can never have enough bench space in your shop.”

The only suitable place for a shop at my house is in my two-car garage, so I need to maximize my work space.  And I didn’t want to spend a lot of money, so I wanted to use what I had on hand, if possible.  So, here’s what I came up with.

We built a frame out of some 2×4′s I had left over from another project.  I didn’t use any fancy joinery.  Just glue and screws. We installed 5″ locking casters on the bottom.  I topped it off with an old solid-core oak door.  Melamine board completed the bottom shelf.  I sized the frame so that one end of the top would fit over the motor on the back of my contractor table saw.  That way, it also makes a handy outfeed table for my saw.  See the drawing on the left.

Now, I need to figure out how to organize the space underneath.  I think I’ll add some drawers and some shelves, but leave part of it open for larger items.  In any case, I’ve already put it to good use.  And I was really surprised how steady it is when the casters are locked.

Here’s a SketchUp model of the workbench you can download and modify using Google’s SketchUp program.

I think I still need more bench space.

It’s been a few years since I’ve done any maintenance on my workbench.  The tail vise was sagging, the face vise was skewed out of alignment, and the top looked pretty cruddy. 

I built it about eight years ago.  It was an inexpensive, but effective design.  I used what I had lying around the shop.  I laminated the top from two sheets of particleboard and a sheet of MDF for the internal layers.  The top and bottom faces were made from Aspen panels I purchased from Lowe’s.  Five layers of 3/4″-thick sheet goods for a total thickness of 4-1/2″.  I edge-banded the top with 1-1/2″-thick Southern Yellow Pine.  I didn’t have the luxury or money for a hardwood top like traditional benches.  This workbench featured in ShopNotes Issue 89 has a top laminated from several sheets of MDF.  It’s a great bench, too.

My construction method gave me a flat top.  And it was very heavy.  But that’s what you want in a good workbench.  I added a front vise and tail vise from Lee Valley.

Anyway…back to my maintenance.  The tail vise had worked loose over the years and started to sag.  So I tore it down and tightened the steel plate that the vise rails ride on (a screw had actually worked loose and fallen out).  I filed the edges of the plate smooth and added just a dab of white lithium grease so the rails would slide easily.  I cleaned everything up and reassembled it, making sure that the top of the vise was flush with the top of my workbench.

The face vise had somehow come out of alignment so that it wouldn’t close evenly.  So I took some time to loosen the support bolts underneath and made sure the frame was square to the front of the bench.  One of my boys noticed that the nuts that hold the front face on the guide rods had worked loose.  So I retightened them and all was right.

My 13-year old was looking for something to do, so I set him loose on cleaning up the old dirt and wax off of the top with some mineral spirits and a 3M Scotch-Brite™ pad.  (We were in a well-ventilated area and he used rubber gloves, for those of you who are concerned.)  He then applied a fresh coat of Briwax to the top.  The top was flat enough that I didn’t feel the need to plane it smooth again.

You know, when I first built this bench, I couldn’t believe how it changed my woodworking.  Before that, I had always used a plywood bench without any vises.  Clamping was awkward so sometimes I didn’t bother — a very dangerous habit to get into.  I can’t imagine now how I ever got anything done.  Having a bench with dog holes to clamp assemblies flat for sanding or planing is great.  And the face vise gets its share of use, too for edge-planing stock.

Nothing beats a good workbench.  And there are plenty of plans for them at www.WorkbenchPlans.com. 

There is no other magazine out there quite like ShopNotes. Through the years, I’ve used plans from ShopNotes to build workbenches, tool stands, and jigs for joining, detailing, and finishing my furniture projects. My first workbench was from Issue No. 24. I cut my first box joints using a jig from Issue No. 8. And I recently started building a spokeshave featured in Issue No. 84.

In the latest issue, due on newsstands in the next week or two, there are several projects I’m looking forward to, including:

Dream Shop Project: Table Saw Workcenter
Upgrade your contractor’s saw by building this custom workcenter. With a large worksurface, loads of storage, dust collection, and a handy built-in router table, you’ll be able to handle any project. Plus, there’s an optional table for extra outfeed support and even more storage.

Weekend Workshop: Heavy-Duty Workbench
This workbench has it all — a rock-solid base, large top, and it’s inexpensive to make. All you need are a few sheets of MDF, some “two-by” stock, and a handful of hardware.

Best-Built Jigs & Fixtures: Palm Router Fluting Jig
Adding flutes is a great way to dress up a project. This shop-made jig makes it easy to rout consistent flutes quickly.

Plus these great Departments: Readers’ Tips, Router Workshop, Materials & Hardware, Jigs & Accessories, Shop Shortcuts, In the Shop, Setting Up Shop, Mastering the Table Saw, Ultimate Garage, Q&A, & Sources