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	<title>Comments on: Podcast #35: Tuning a Hand Plane for Performance</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2008/06/18/podcast-35-tuning-a-hand-plane-for-performance/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2008/06/18/podcast-35-tuning-a-hand-plane-for-performance/</link>
	<description>An online source of information for the connected woodworker.</description>
	<pubDate>Wed, 03 Dec 2008 23:51:04 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: John B.</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2008/06/18/podcast-35-tuning-a-hand-plane-for-performance/#comment-26155</link>
		<dc:creator>John B.</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Jul 2008 20:05:00 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Thanks for a fantastic podcast!  I have the "old-tool-bug" and have been restoring plenty of vintage tools recently.  
The one comment I would like to make is, when flattening the sole of an old plane, I like to keep the entire plane assembled (with the blade retracted).  I find the added tension the complete assembly applies to the body will slightly change the shape of the sole.  Since I use the plane fully assembled, I want to flatten the sole fully assembled.
Thanks again and keep the great info coming!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for a fantastic podcast!  I have the &#8220;old-tool-bug&#8221; and have been restoring plenty of vintage tools recently.<br />
The one comment I would like to make is, when flattening the sole of an old plane, I like to keep the entire plane assembled (with the blade retracted).  I find the added tension the complete assembly applies to the body will slightly change the shape of the sole.  Since I use the plane fully assembled, I want to flatten the sole fully assembled.<br />
Thanks again and keep the great info coming!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Todd</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2008/06/18/podcast-35-tuning-a-hand-plane-for-performance/#comment-25431</link>
		<dc:creator>Todd</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 06 Jul 2008 21:54:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?p=1039#comment-25431</guid>
		<description>Excellent show.  This would have saved me years of reading and trial/error.  A little late now but I always enjoy your videocasts.  People always ask me the difference between a $40 hand plane and a $200 one.  Can the $40 plane suffice?  I also have friends who will buy a rusty old plane and now know how to restore it for use.  This show covered much of that.  I would add the advice to check/file all mating surfaces, including the frog and backside of the mouth (where the blade rests).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Excellent show.  This would have saved me years of reading and trial/error.  A little late now but I always enjoy your videocasts.  People always ask me the difference between a $40 hand plane and a $200 one.  Can the $40 plane suffice?  I also have friends who will buy a rusty old plane and now know how to restore it for use.  This show covered much of that.  I would add the advice to check/file all mating surfaces, including the frog and backside of the mouth (where the blade rests).</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Bedrock Bob</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2008/06/18/podcast-35-tuning-a-hand-plane-for-performance/#comment-25056</link>
		<dc:creator>Bedrock Bob</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jun 2008 13:41:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?p=1039#comment-25056</guid>
		<description>You did a very good job on the podcast.
One thing you failed to mention was that the Lie-Nielsen hand planes are based on the bedrock-type planes.  The major advantage of this design is that you don’t have to remove the blade to adjust the size of the mouth.  From the back of the plane you can loosen the two locking screws and move the adjusting screw to adjust the mouth size.  Then tighten the two locking screws.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You did a very good job on the podcast.<br />
One thing you failed to mention was that the Lie-Nielsen hand planes are based on the bedrock-type planes.  The major advantage of this design is that you don’t have to remove the blade to adjust the size of the mouth.  From the back of the plane you can loosen the two locking screws and move the adjusting screw to adjust the mouth size.  Then tighten the two locking screws.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Keith Cruickshank</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2008/06/18/podcast-35-tuning-a-hand-plane-for-performance/#comment-24495</link>
		<dc:creator>Keith Cruickshank</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 Jun 2008 00:03:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodworkingonline.com/?p=1039#comment-24495</guid>
		<description>Nicely done. I'm a big believer in saving and restoring these old standbys!!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Nicely done. I&#8217;m a big believer in saving and restoring these old standbys!!</p>
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