Wanted: Good, Sharp Pocket Knife

I remember growing up that my dad always had a sharp pocketknife in his pocket. He still carries one with him all the time. He could never stand not having a sharp knife and sharpened it often. So, I guess I picked up the habit of carrying a pocket knife from Dad.

My first decent pocket knife I purchased for myself was a small, two-bladed Buck knife. It had stainless steel blades and real wood scales.  I bought it on my honeymoon and carried it with me every day for about 15 years. Imagine how heartbroken I was when I emptied my pockets one evening and it wasn’t there. I looked all over, but couldn’t find it. A few weeks later, I resigned myself to the fact that it was long gone. Soon after, I replaced it with a Case knife. It, too, had stainless steel blades.  Some months later, I pulled into our gravel driveway, and as I was getting out of the car, I saw what remained of my original Buck knife.  Actually, it was pretty intact, but the combination of gravel and cars running over it removed one of the wood scales.

When I carried a pocket knife, I used it mostly for opening packages, cutting cardboard, and tightening the occasional screw.  (I know…don’t tell my dad.)  Every so often, I’d take it out to the shop and sharpen it. But it seemed like it never held an edge for very long (even when I didn’t use it as a screwdriver). I’m no metallurgist and certainly don’t understand the finer points of blade steel, but I wondered if the stainless steel blades were the problem.

It occurred to me that the reason my dad’s knife is always sharp might not be just that he sharpens it often, but perhaps his has a high-carbon steel blade. (I’ll have to ask next time I see him.) I think carbon steel can be sharpened to a finer edge and holds its edge better than stainless steel. All I want is a knife you can almost shave with. I could never get that with my stainless steel knives.

I’ve been intrigued by these little Opinel knives from Lee Valley. The smallest one is small enough to carry in a pocket. And the blades are made from high-carbon steel. The price is right at just under $11US each for the two smaller ones. I’ve been carrying one around in my pocket for a few weeks, so maybe I’ll get a feel for how well the blade holds up to packing tape and cardboard and maybe the occasional whittling (but no tightening of screws). When I got it, it just took a little honing to get it impressively sharp.  A lot sharper than my Buck or Case stainless steel knives, anyway.  So far, for being an inexpensive knife, I’ve been impressed.

8 Responses to “Wanted: Good, Sharp Pocket Knife”

mnblade said,

Why not get a new Case carbon steel knife? They still make some. Look for a Case with CV (chrome vanadium) steel. I have a couple and both take and hold an edge like nobody’s business. Check out http://www.wrcase.com.

Randy Maxey said,

Thanks, mnblade…

I had checked out Case knives recently and it seemed that all their pocket knives are made with stainless steel blades. So I checked it again after your post. You really have to go digging into their web site to find the knives with chrome vanadium blades. Now that I know they’re still available, I may have to order one!

–Randy

mnblade said,

Well, didja get one, or are you waiting for Santa? :-)

Randy Maxey said,

I haven’t yet. Maybe Santa will slip one into my stocking this year!

–Randy

Paul Sellers said,

I have both stainless steel and high-carbon steel knives and enjoy both. I think that it’s true that carbon steel knives can take a finer edge but understand that this is a result more of the hammer forging under drop hammers as opposed to simply using rolled steel. A strength and durability of cutting edge depends on the angle of the two bevels that combine to form the cutting edge. A knife with low or shallow-angled bevels seems to be sharper than a knife with steep bevels but in reality they may well be as sharp as each other. It’s not so much the sharpness of the cutting edge but the resistance that comes from the steeper angles either side of the cutting edge. The shallower the angle the less resistance and therefor the sense that the knife is sharper. So, is the answer to sharpen at the lowest angle possible? the problem with doing that is that the cutting edge becomes very weak and cutting plastic tags and packages, shaping a pencil point and even slitting paper quickly causes the cutting edge to fracture along its micro-edge. Soon the blade edge is rounded and dull. The compromise is to maintain a shallow bevel to each side of the blade and the cerate a micro-bevel to strengthen the cutting edge. that way you have a steep sided but sharp cutting combined with low angles to the main grinding bevels that then offer minimal resistance. This practice works on both stainless and carbon steel blades. But it’s important to always reestablish the main the bevel every time you sharpen, otherwise the cutting edge will develop a ‘thick’ edge that takes much greater effort to reestablish.

Paul Sellers

Paul Sellers said,

Thanks Joel,

Judging by my typos I was past my bedtime. Cerate should read create.

Paul

mnblade said,

Ever pick up one of those CV/carbon Case knives, Randy?

Lester Hinsin said,

Case has a page on their site that lists all their carbon steel (or chrome vanadium or CV, as they call it). It’s at http://www.wrcase.com/knives/cv_knives/

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