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	<title>Comments on: Wanted:  Good, Sharp Pocket Knife</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/10/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/10/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/</link>
	<description>An online source of information for the connected woodworker.</description>
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		<title>By: Dave Navoyosky</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/10/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/comment-page-1/#comment-92907</link>
		<dc:creator>Dave Navoyosky</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 May 2010 18:39:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/08/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/#comment-92907</guid>
		<description>Chrome-Vanadium is known to take a sharper edge, but stainless steel looks better longer. Case makes more stainless steel (SS in the stock number) knives than chrome vanadium (CV in the stock number). This must mean that SS is more popular than CV. Is that because most Case owners would rather collect knives instead of use them? The Case Smooth Yellow Trapper, number 161, has CV blades. But the collectors would probably rather get the model 8161, which is the SS version of the same knife.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Chrome-Vanadium is known to take a sharper edge, but stainless steel looks better longer. Case makes more stainless steel (SS in the stock number) knives than chrome vanadium (CV in the stock number). This must mean that SS is more popular than CV. Is that because most Case owners would rather collect knives instead of use them? The Case Smooth Yellow Trapper, number 161, has CV blades. But the collectors would probably rather get the model 8161, which is the SS version of the same knife.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: tvnewsbadge</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/10/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/comment-page-1/#comment-58429</link>
		<dc:creator>tvnewsbadge</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 13 Mar 2009 03:26:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/08/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/#comment-58429</guid>
		<description>You certainly can&#039;t go wrong with the Opinel. It&#039;s a world class knife with a lot of history.
The thin blade won&#039;t take much screwdriving though, but for shaving tomatoes, it can&#039;t be beat.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You certainly can&#8217;t go wrong with the Opinel. It&#8217;s a world class knife with a lot of history.<br />
The thin blade won&#8217;t take much screwdriving though, but for shaving tomatoes, it can&#8217;t be beat.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Lester Hinsin</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/10/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/comment-page-1/#comment-39407</link>
		<dc:creator>Lester Hinsin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 25 Nov 2008 11:43:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/08/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/#comment-39407</guid>
		<description>Case has a page on their site that lists all their carbon steel (or chrome vanadium or CV, as they call it). It&#039;s at http://www.wrcase.com/knives/cv_knives/</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Case has a page on their site that lists all their carbon steel (or chrome vanadium or CV, as they call it). It&#8217;s at <a href="http://www.wrcase.com/knives/cv_knives/" rel="nofollow">http://www.wrcase.com/knives/cv_knives/</a></p>
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	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: mnblade</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/10/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/comment-page-1/#comment-21355</link>
		<dc:creator>mnblade</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 09 Apr 2008 15:27:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/08/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/#comment-21355</guid>
		<description>Ever pick up one of those CV/carbon Case knives, Randy?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ever pick up one of those CV/carbon Case knives, Randy?</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Paul Sellers</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/10/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/comment-page-1/#comment-12010</link>
		<dc:creator>Paul Sellers</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Dec 2007 03:27:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/08/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/#comment-12010</guid>
		<description>Thanks Joel,

Judging by my typos I was past my bedtime. Cerate should read create.

Paul</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks Joel,</p>
<p>Judging by my typos I was past my bedtime. Cerate should read create.</p>
<p>Paul</p>
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		<title>By: Paul Sellers</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/10/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/comment-page-1/#comment-11927</link>
		<dc:creator>Paul Sellers</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Dec 2007 15:35:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/08/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/#comment-11927</guid>
		<description>I have both stainless steel and high-carbon steel knives and enjoy both. I think that it&#039;s true that carbon steel knives can take a finer edge but understand that this is a result more of the hammer forging under drop hammers as opposed to simply using rolled steel. A strength and durability of cutting edge depends on the angle of the two bevels that combine to form the cutting edge. A knife with low or shallow-angled bevels seems to be sharper than a knife with steep bevels but in reality they may well be as sharp as each other. It&#039;s not so much the sharpness of the cutting edge but the resistance that comes from the steeper angles either side of the cutting edge. The shallower the angle the less resistance and therefor the sense that the knife is sharper. So, is the answer to sharpen at the lowest angle possible? the problem with doing that is that the cutting edge becomes very weak and cutting plastic tags and packages, shaping a pencil point and even slitting paper quickly causes the cutting edge to fracture along its micro-edge. Soon the blade edge is rounded and dull. The compromise is to maintain a shallow bevel to each side of the blade and the cerate a micro-bevel to strengthen the cutting edge. that way you have a steep sided but sharp cutting combined with low angles to the main grinding bevels that then offer minimal resistance. This practice works on both stainless and carbon steel blades. But it&#039;s important to always reestablish the main the bevel every time you sharpen, otherwise the cutting edge will develop a &#039;thick&#039; edge that takes much greater effort to reestablish.

Paul Sellers</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have both stainless steel and high-carbon steel knives and enjoy both. I think that it&#8217;s true that carbon steel knives can take a finer edge but understand that this is a result more of the hammer forging under drop hammers as opposed to simply using rolled steel. A strength and durability of cutting edge depends on the angle of the two bevels that combine to form the cutting edge. A knife with low or shallow-angled bevels seems to be sharper than a knife with steep bevels but in reality they may well be as sharp as each other. It&#8217;s not so much the sharpness of the cutting edge but the resistance that comes from the steeper angles either side of the cutting edge. The shallower the angle the less resistance and therefor the sense that the knife is sharper. So, is the answer to sharpen at the lowest angle possible? the problem with doing that is that the cutting edge becomes very weak and cutting plastic tags and packages, shaping a pencil point and even slitting paper quickly causes the cutting edge to fracture along its micro-edge. Soon the blade edge is rounded and dull. The compromise is to maintain a shallow bevel to each side of the blade and the cerate a micro-bevel to strengthen the cutting edge. that way you have a steep sided but sharp cutting combined with low angles to the main grinding bevels that then offer minimal resistance. This practice works on both stainless and carbon steel blades. But it&#8217;s important to always reestablish the main the bevel every time you sharpen, otherwise the cutting edge will develop a &#8216;thick&#8217; edge that takes much greater effort to reestablish.</p>
<p>Paul Sellers</p>
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		<title>By: Randy Maxey</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/10/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/comment-page-1/#comment-11272</link>
		<dc:creator>Randy Maxey</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Dec 2007 13:52:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/08/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/#comment-11272</guid>
		<description>I haven&#039;t yet. Maybe Santa will slip one into my stocking this year!

--Randy</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I haven&#8217;t yet. Maybe Santa will slip one into my stocking this year!</p>
<p>&#8211;Randy</p>
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		<title>By: mnblade</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/10/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/comment-page-1/#comment-11270</link>
		<dc:creator>mnblade</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 11 Dec 2007 10:49:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/08/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/#comment-11270</guid>
		<description>Well, didja get one, or are you waiting for Santa? :-)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Well, didja get one, or are you waiting for Santa? <img src='http://www.woodworkingonline.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':-)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Randy Maxey</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/10/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/comment-page-1/#comment-9703</link>
		<dc:creator>Randy Maxey</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 14 Nov 2007 15:10:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/08/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/#comment-9703</guid>
		<description>Thanks, mnblade...

I had checked out Case knives recently and it seemed that all their pocket knives are made with stainless steel blades.  So I checked it again after your post.  You really have to go digging into their web site to find the knives with chrome vanadium blades.  Now that I know they&#039;re still available, I may have to order one!  

--Randy</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks, mnblade&#8230;</p>
<p>I had checked out Case knives recently and it seemed that all their pocket knives are made with stainless steel blades.  So I checked it again after your post.  You really have to go digging into their web site to find the knives with chrome vanadium blades.  Now that I know they&#8217;re still available, I may have to order one!  </p>
<p>&#8211;Randy</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: mnblade</title>
		<link>http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/10/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/comment-page-1/#comment-9585</link>
		<dc:creator>mnblade</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 12 Nov 2007 22:10:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/08/28/wanted-good-sharp-pocket-knife/#comment-9585</guid>
		<description>Why not get a new Case carbon steel knife? They still make some. Look for a Case with CV (chrome vanadium) steel. I have a couple and both take and hold an edge like nobody&#039;s business. Check out www.wrcase.com.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Why not get a new Case carbon steel knife? They still make some. Look for a Case with CV (chrome vanadium) steel. I have a couple and both take and hold an edge like nobody&#8217;s business. Check out <a href="http://www.wrcase.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.wrcase.com</a>.</p>
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